Steve Kerbel
One of my hobbies over the past 25 years has been tasting and getting to know the Israeli wine industry. While wine has been produced in the Middle East at least since the time of Noah, and grapes are one of the first crops identified in the book of Bamidbar when Moses sends his “advance team” of scouts into the land of Israel, the current wine culture in Israel is complex and growing quickly.
While no one seems to be keeping exact records, there are something like 300 wineries in Israel, two-thirds of them are boutique wineries, producing fewer than 25,000 bottles a year. I try to visit a handful of wineries each trip, exploring new wineries and visiting old favorites.
For me, buying wine is a tangible, regular way to provide economic support for a growing export of Israel. Living in Montgomery County doesn’t make this easy, and I often find myself buying wine in the District or on line. There are some great wines, and also from very good moderately priced wines that are just right for the Seder Table.
Three of the largest wineries in Israel are Carmel, Golan Heights and Barkan. While Carmel was stuck for a very long time in the sweet-wine market, their purchase of boutique winemaker Yatir in the northern Negev in 2000 showed them the value of the fine wine market. In addition to some terrific reds (Judean Hills, a Bordeaux-style blend and their Merlot) they make a delightful Viognier. Carmel is also producing some excellent, higher end, single-vineyard wines, their Kayoumi Cabernet Sauvignon and the Kayoumi Shiraz, that are winning medals in European competitions and are terrific. I recommend the Kayoumi Shiraz if you are serving roasted poultry. Carmel’s new Appellation series of varietals and blends, particularly the Ridge White blend from Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Colombard and a little Semillon is very pleasant.
Golan Heights and Barkan wines are readily available. The Barkan Classic, their budget-priced wine, is consistent in quality and offers about 8 varieties, two very nice whites, a Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, and a half-dozen reds. Their Altitude series is especially nice.
For wineries from our community’s Partnership Together region of Bet Shemesh and Mateh Yehuda, there are spectacular wines from Tepperberg, Ella Valley, Tzuba (their 2007 Cabernet is winning medals consistently), Tzora.
So what am I serving? Our seder tends to be a bit like a wine tasting, now that our daughters are adults. I like to start with a robust red wine for Kiddush, this year it will likely be the Psagot Edom, a Bordeaux style blend I tasted this summer at the vineyard. I may also open a Carmel Kayoumi Shiraz. For the second glass, that will likely be served with the fish course, we go with a white, either the Dalton Fume Blanc or a Galil Mountain Viognier. For the third glass and the main course, either the Galil Mountain Yiron or Segal Fusion Red. For the fourth cup, with dessert, we’ll likely have a Tishbi Riesling, the Carmel White Ridge mentioned above or a new dessert wine made by my friend Avital Goldner at the Katamon Winery in Jerusalem.
Whatever you do, experiment, enjoy and try something new. All traditions had to start sometime! An enjoyable Passover to everyone, L’Chaim!
