Steve Kerbel
One of my hobbies over the past 25 years has been tasting Israeli
wines and getting to know the Israeli wine industry. While wine has been produced in the Middle
East at least since the time of Noah, and grapes are one of the first crops
identified in the book of Bamidbar
when Moses sends his “advance team” of scouts into the land of Israel, the
current wine culture in Israel is complex and growing quickly.
While no one seems to be keeping exact records, there are
something like 300 wineries in Israel, two-thirds of them are boutique
wineries, producing fewer than 25,000 bottles a year. I try to visit a handful of wineries each
trip, exploring new wineries and visiting old favorites.
For me, buying wine is a tangible, regular way to provide
economic support for a growing export of Israel. Living in Montgomery County doesn’t make this
easy, and I often find myself buying wine in the District or on line. There are some great wines, and also from
very good moderately priced wines that are just right for the Seder Table.
Three of the largest wineries in Israel are Carmel, Golan
Heights and Barkan. While Carmel was
stuck for a very long time in the sweet-wine market, their purchase of boutique
winemaker Yatir in the northern Negev in 2000 showed them the value of the fine
wine market. In addition to some
terrific reds (Judean Hills, a Bordeaux-style blend and their Merlot) they make
a delightful Viognier. Carmel is also
producing some excellent, higher end, single-vineyard wines, their Kayoumi
Cabernet Sauvignon and the Kayoumi Shiraz, that are winning medals in European
competitions and are terrific. I
recommend the Kayoumi Shiraz if you are serving roasted poultry. Carmel’s new Appellation series of varietals
and blends, particularly the Ridge White blend from Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay
and Colombard and a little Semillon is very pleasant. The Cabernet Franc is also outstanding.
Golan Heights and Barkan wines are readily available. The Barkan Classic, their budget-priced wine,
is consistent in quality and offers about 8 varieties, two very nice whites, a
Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, and a half-dozen reds. Their Altitude series is especially nice.
For wineries from our community’s Partnership Together
region of Beit Shemesh and Mateh Yehuda, there are spectacular wines from
Tepperberg, Ella Valley, Tzuba (their 2007 Cabernet is winning medals
consistently), Tzora. The relatively new Tepperburg Collage, a blend of 80%
Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Petite Syrah offer exceptional quality for value.
So what am I serving?
Our seder tends to be a bit like a wine tasting, now that our daughters
are adults. I like to start with a
robust red wine for Kiddush, this year it will likely be the Psagot Edom, A
Bordeaux style blend I tasted this summer at the vineyard. I may also open a Carmel Kayoumi Shiraz. For the second glass, that will likely be
served with the fish course, we go with a white, either the Dalton Alma White
blend or a Galil Mountain Viognier. For
the third glass and the main course, either the
Galil Mountain Yiron or or a Binyamina Shiraz. For the fourth cup, with dessert, we’ll
likely have a Yarden Riesling, or a new dessert wine made by my friend Avital
Goldner at the Katamon Winery in Jerusalem.
Whatever you do, experiment, enjoy and try something
new. All traditions had to start
sometime! An enjoyable Passover to
everyone, L’Chaim!
