Israel - Observations and maybe even some myth busting.

As I've mentioned, I'm here in Israel fairly frequently.  I've taken tours, been part of workshops and missions, taken university courses at both campus' of Hebrew University. I've stayed in hotels, hostels, caravans, apartments and houses.  I've stayed in cities (primarily Jerusalem, where I feel I know the center really well and some suburbs/neighborhoods not at all), towns, villages, moshavim and kibbutzim.

I've prayed with almost every kind of Jew (except the very Hareidi (ultra Orthodox or Hassidic)) and prayed from dozens of versions of the prayer book.  If you've just come on an organized trip for two weeks, you probably saw a lot more of the country than the average resident sees in 6 months, but you saw a different Israel than the one they see every day.  Staying in residential neighborhoods, both alone and with friends, I want to share a few observations about what other parts of Israel you may not see from the lobby of your hotel or the window of your bus.

Israeli rudeness: I think it may be waning (but I'm sitting shiva so I may be inclined to make allowances for people). Last night I was walking home from trying to see if there was a minyan at the local synagogue to see if there was a minyan (another example of my innovative mobile shiva).  There wasn't.  Behind me on the sidewalk there were two boys on bicycles (no helmets: really?) about 12-13 years old - they rang their bells, I moved over, and as they passed, they each said, Todah (thanks).  That hasn't always happened here.  I have a theory that maybe as security improves, at least away from the borders, that people feel less anxiety and they take the effort to be more polite.  I still see people over 60 pushing to get in line, pushing to get on the bus, the way they always have.  The younger generation may be just a little more chill.

Religion/Prayer: There are a lot of religious people here.  If you go to Jerusalem or Beit Shemesh or a religious community like Beitar Ilit you will say, wow, there are a lot of religious Jews here.  There are about 6.5 million Jews in Israel, maybe a million more than in the USA.  The ultra orthodox percentage of the population is growing, because they have a much higher than average birth rate, but still its likely in the 18-22% range of the population.  Right now I'm not in a religious area, I'm near the coast, north of Hadera and south of Zichron Yaakov.  I am driving 10 minutes south to join a morning minyan and I'm still looking for an evening minyan (it's a matter of availability for a car because there isn't one within a 30 minute walk of where I am).  Just because the media likes labels and stereotypes and likes to take photos of the ultra orthodox because they are immediately identifiable as Jews in a photo, don't think they are everywhere or that there is a synagogue on every corner.  Even if there is, don't think of it as a 7 day a week operation - it's just as likely as not to have services only on Shabbat.

Transportation:  In the early austere days of the State of Israel, the economy suffered, Israel struggled as she absorbed Jews from all over the world, doubling its population during its first 3 years of existence and then again by around 1956, growing from 600,000 to 2.5 million in the first 8 years of Statehood.  Privately owned cars were a rarity.  As late as the mid 1970's, I knew one person with a car here and that was provided by his employer.  Everyone else used public transportation.

The network of buses and trains here is exceptional, its relatively inexpensive (a bus ride in Jerusalem is around $2; intercity maybe $5-6).  When you consider that gas here is around $7 a gallon (give or take, based on about 6.8 shekels a litre, 4 litres to a gallon and 3.5 shekels - feel free to check my math - I'm estimating).  In Tel Aviv or Jerusalem, you're much better off on foot, in a bus or a train than driving.  The roads are packed and parking is a hassle.  Outside of the big cities having a car is a plus for things like winery visits or seeing national parks.  They keep building transportation infrastructure, a light rail in J-lem, building a light rail in Tel Aviv - bike and scooter sharing (and electric bikes) are also popular options here. NOBODY BUT A FEW SHOWY BEDOUIN RIDE CAMELS.

Food:  Those hotel buffets are not how regular people eat here.  Portions at older more established restaurants are indeed huge.  Even informal dining places in malls will give you 4-8 different types of salads or spreads to eat while waiting for your main course, even it its only a skewer or two of protein or a sandwich.  Generally though, people follow a pretty classic Mediterranean diet.  Many employers provide lunch, so that tends to be the largest meal of the day with a protein, side dishes (vegetable and carbohydrate - so much rice!) salad and fruit.  People at home often eat an egg or salad for dinner - no Brady Bunch/Ozzie and Harriet three course meals unless you are eating in a restaurant, it Shabbat or a holiday.  Last night I had a carrot, a couple of crackers and butter for dinner after having had a piece of chicken for lunch (my current hosts don't eat any grains or flour or most carbs, even fruit.  I bought some fruit for myself).  People often splurge on Friday Brunch since that's the closest thing to their Sunday.

So that's it for now - you'll have to wait for next week for the wine portion of the trip (for me it's part of my work, so I will try to make a few winery visits. More to follow,